The Spinel: Fine Jewellery's Most Overlooked Gemstone

Over 90% of the 'rubies' adorning European crown jewels before the 19th century are now identified as spinels — an astonishing statistic that reveals just how long this gemstone has been hiding in plain sight. The Black Prince's Ruby, the Timur Ruby, and even the 'Ruby' in the Danish crown: all are spinels, often larger and more vivid than their misattributed counterparts. For centuries, spinel was the great imposter, but today it is finally stepping into its own light as a desirable, collectable gemstone in its own right.

A Gemstone of Many Faces

Spinel occurs in a seductive spectrum of colours, from the fiery 'flame' spinel to the rare cobalt blue and the prized neon pink known as 'jedi' spinel. Its hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale makes it eminently wearable for rings and bracelets — tougher than emerald and only slightly softer than sapphire. Unlike ruby, spinel's crystal structure is singly refractive, which often gives it a sharper, more brilliant sparkle. This optical clarity, combined with its lack of cleavage, means it can withstand daily wear with remarkable resilience.

Why Spinel Deserves a Place in Your Collection

Despite its rarity (fine spinels are significantly less common than rubies of comparable quality), spinel remains undervalued in the market. A top-quality red spinel can cost a fraction of a ruby of similar size and saturation, offering an astute buyer exceptional value. As connoisseurs increasingly seek out alternative gemstones with character, spinel’s star is rising — both at auction houses and among independent designers. For the collector, a spinel ring or pendant offers an investment in beauty that has yet to hit its price ceiling.

When selecting a spinel, look for vivid, even colour with no visible inclusions. Red and pink spinels are the most sought-after, but the rarer cobalt-blue specimens from Vietnam command growing interest. Because spinel often forms in octahedral crystals, it pairs beautifully with both clean geometric settings and romantic antique styles. A spinel set in 18-karat rose gold accentuates its warmth, while platinum or white gold intensifies its cooler tones. In a world where quality is increasingly prized over provenance hype, the spinel offers a quiet, intelligent elegance.

Whether you are commissioning a custom piece or seeking a gemstone with a story, spinel delivers on every count — a gemstone that once kept the company of kings, now ready to find its way into your jewellery box.