The Ruby That Wasn't: Why Spinel Is the Gemstone World's Best-Kept Secret

For centuries, the vast, pigeon-blood-red gemstone set in the Imperial State Crown was believed to be a ruby. It was only in the mid-19th century that gemmologists identified it as a 170-carat red spinel, a discovery that reshaped gemstone history. Despite this royal pedigree, spinel remains surprisingly underappreciated in fine jewellery. This is slowly changing as collectors and designers rediscover its extraordinary qualities.

A Gemstone of Many Colours

Spinel has been mined for millennia, with celebrated examples from the famous Timur Ruby necklace to the Black Prince's Ruby. Spinels occur in a rainbow of colours — from vivid reds and pinks to blues, lavenders, and even electric orange. They have a hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale, making them durable enough for everyday wear, and their brilliance often rivals that of sapphire or ruby. The finest specimens, particularly from Burma and Sri Lanka, command high prices but still offer exceptional value relative to their more famous cousins.

Why Designers Love Spinel

Spinel's broad colour palette gives jewellery designers remarkable freedom. A single piece might combine pastel pink spinels with diamonds for a contemporary look, or feature deep red spinels in a Neo-Renaissance setting for a dramatic effect. Because spinels seldom require heat treatment to enhance their colour, the gemstone's natural beauty is unadulterated. This authenticity appeals to those who seek a connection to the earth's raw artistry.

How to Choose the Perfect Spinel

When selecting spinel jewellery, colour is paramount. Look for vivid, saturated hues without visible inclusions. The most prized are 'jedi' spinels from Mahenge, Tanzania — hot pink stones with exceptional fluorescence. For a more traditional investment, a well-cut red spinel over one carat is a collector's dream. Always request a gemmological certificate to confirm the stone's origin and any treatments.

Spinel offers the connoisseur a rare opportunity: a gemstone with a rich history, unimpeachable beauty, and extraordinary value. It is not a substitute for a ruby or a sapphire but a world-class gem in its own right. At Gioielleria Patricia Oro, we celebrate under-recognised gems, and spinel is a favourite among our curators for its fiery personality and historical cachet. For those who seek jewellery that tells a story, few stones carry a narrative as compelling as the one that fooled a kingdom.