Spinel: The Royal Gem That Was Once Dismissed as a Ruby

Britain’s Imperial State Crown carries a 170-carat red gem that was once the envy of every European monarch. For centuries it was admired as the Black Prince’s Ruby, passed from hand to hand since the fourteenth century. Not until the twentieth century did gemmologists reveal the truth: the crown’s centrepiece is a spinel, not a ruby. That single discovery overturned the reputation of a stone long dismissed as merely an imitation.

Spinel is a magnesium aluminium oxide that crystallises as striking octahedrons. It occurs in a rainbow of colours, from vivid crimson to cool lavender, and its hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale makes it robust enough for rings worn daily. Because rubies and sapphires belong to the corundum family, spinels were rarely given their own identity. Only after vintage stones were re-tested did many museums confess that their 'rubies' were actually spinels—including a prominent stone in the French Crown Jewels.

Why Spinel Deserves a Second Look

The market's ignorance has been the collector's gain. Fine red spinel, especially from Burma, can be extraordinarily vivid and occasionally rivals the best ruby in colour. Yet it remains significantly less expensive, allowing buyers to choose larger stones or superior clarity without a royal ransom. Blue spinels from Sri Lanka offer a pastel charm, while cobalt spinels deliver an electric blue that surprises even seasoned jewellers.

How to Choose and Wear Spinel

Look for stones with saturated, even colour and few visible inclusions; spinel is a very clean gemstone, so most specimens should be eye-clean. The most prized hues are rich pigeon-blood red, deep cobalt blue, and bright magenta, but personal taste should always win over fashion. Cut matters enormously—precisely executed facets or calibrated cushions bring out the fire that spinel naturally possesses. At Gioielleria Patricia Oro, we set spinels in 18k gold and sometimes pair them with old-cut diamonds for that quiet, intelligent radiance. Whether worn as a cocktail ring or a pendant near the collarbone, spinel invites the kind of comment that only a discerning eye can make.